Birthday

09/03/05

My birthday. 24 years old. I've been sitting in church for 3.5 hours.

Church here really is a phenomenon. Today was the end of the big 'comp meeting.' I knew it was going to be big when there were people streaming up the dirt road carrying their own stools and benches (and even some desks from the primary school.) I got there and tried to sneak in the back so I could try and remain (relatively) inconspicuous, but an elder was waiting at the gate and insisted I take my trusty chair right up front. I tried to refuse, but he demanded (with a smile) that I 'respect his personality.' I ended up in the front, surrounded by elders from the whole region. There were easily 1000 people packed into courtyard that they use for the service. There was a lorry and a Matatu that they had used to bus people in. The first two hours that I was there (the service has started at 6am, I got there at 10am) were spent introducing people. When the pastor got to me, he did this whole build up, "and… coning to us all the way from California, in those United States Of America, none other than the one, the only, Mr. Andrew Young!" After all that build up I didn't even have the heart to correct him on my name. Not like it really matters. I got my third opportunity to stand up and greet the congregation and thank them for their hospitality, although my first time in front of 1000… There were choirs, tithes, more choirs… we didn't get a sermon until noon. A young man came and sat next to me to translate. The sermon was about judgment day. African pastors blow me away, the vehemence they have in their voice when they are talking about brotherly love is astounding, so that fervor when talking about the eternal damnation of heathens was almost frightening. After the sermon there was a lot more praying, and some people came forward to be born again (I did not.) Finally it was lunchtime and I could make my escape. Or so I thought. On my way out, I was caught by the same elder who forced me up front, and he insisted I go to the pastor's house for lunch with the visitors. I made up a lie about having important duties to attend to, but he wouldn't be swayed. He insisted (again with a smile) that I at least take a sip of water to honor their table or some such nonsense. I was ushered inside the house. They had laid out quite a spread, rice, chapati, beans, and porridge. I sat down next to my translator Peter, and we chatted for a bit. Robert appeared just as the food was being served and I explained my situation, he poured me a glass of the groundnut porridge and I drank it down and was then able to politely excuse myself. Through throngs of handshakes I was finally able to make it to the gate, where who was waiting for me? The same elder! He told me I had to come back in the afternoon, that I was leaving to fast. I told him I would if I could and he finally relented. Freedom! Upon getting back here, all the kids started asking if I would be going back up. I kind of want to bring my camera, even though that may be wholly inappropriate, but it's just such a scene.

I just had a breakthrough. And I came so close to not going back to the church. I stood at the door of my simba, I walked in and out, I was going to take this camera and then that camera and then no camera, books, no books, books but no camera, but no camera not worth going. Camera, it will be weird, people will wonder, they'll stare. The thought that finally got me out the door (camera and books) was "Fuck it." I thought about coming back to LA with nothing but a bunch of stories about how it felt awkward to bring my camera places or ask for pictures. I got scared half way up to the church and almost turned around. Suck it up man. I saw Robert a bit further, he was on his way to someone's home to do counseling, and he didn't mention the camera, which gave me confidence. The elder wasn't posted up at the gate so I was able to slip into the back of the courtyard instead of my trusty seat up front. I, dare I say, sort of blended in (considering.) People weren't staring. I got to observe (this trip has really taught me the value of inconspicuousness.) It's a party at the back of the churchyard. Kids playing, youths meeting, its nothing like the solemn affair up front. Soon a guy named Moses whom I met on Friday came up and we started chatting, and then another guy Odongo (who was an ADRA member) joined in. We started talking about HIV/AIDS, what had been tried before, what they thought was still needed. A third fellow joined in the conversation. They asked me questions about the US, about Los Angeles and sports and music. A large group of young kids sat in front on us, listening. I casually took out my camera and started taking a few snaps. The kids ate it up. I changed lenses and took some more. I had to explain about focal lengths, and as I drew little explanatory diagrams all the kids (and some adults too) gathered around to look. I'm not sure if all this was rude or sacrilegious, but no one seemed to giving an evil eye, and we weren't making any more of a scene than what was already happening. The kids were really cute, some were totally shy and some were complete camera whores. But they all seemed to want their pictures made. I didn't mention it, but I'm going to try and send home full res files and see if I cant get prints mailed to me here, I think people would really get a kick out getting a copy. I said my goodbyes and they all wanted a handshake. They are really fascinated by my skin (there are rumors that muzungo skin is so soft it will fall off in your hands when you touch it. I hate to disappoint.) As I walked way one of the kids said 'give me your camera.' Of course. But one of the kids, Adrian, had already been pointed out to me as one of the village's orphans, and it was just nice to laugh and smile with all the kids (despite the language barrier), and get a couple great shots as well. I walked home in a light rain, talking to Moses about fitness and football. I was excited to get back and review the pictures.

When I started going through them (should have pumped the iso up to 400, more would have been tack) I happened to look out the window and saw a beautiful sunset, and decided I needed to shoot a frame or two. I jogged out to the road, and at first didn't notice it, but then was jaw dropped by a huge complete rainbow. Happy birthday. Some kids were fetching their evening water from the stream and I asked them for pictures. Two boys with a wheelbarrow and a little girl with a bucket on her head and a boy with a cowboy hat… It was great. A sugar cane tractor rolled up and I asked the farmers if I could snap them. They didn't really say yes, but they didn't object either, and two of them even smiled… Breakthrough. Getting back to the house, Kaleb and Steven and Susan and I all converged from different places and were greeting each other and I felt totally at home. The rainbow was gone, but I was happy. No one knew, but I had just had a great 24th birthday. And to think that I almost didn't have courage to go back to the church…

My mom called and gramma called, I ate licorice and peanuts and stayed up late listening to music and editing in photoshop. I didn't even break into the Kenyan whiskey I had bought for the occasion… no need. Natural high.

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