Mission Impossible

08/10/05

...I was going to be stranded on the side of the road, with the DVX, my passport, all my money, the whole shebang, trying to hitch my way to Kanga…

So after an uneventful Matatu ride to Kisii, I trudged my way up the the main street (lugging a very heavy and awkward bag) ignoring pleas from Matatu touts (Kisumu? Migori? Sidari Sidari!) and finally made it to the Akamba Bus HQ. There I was informed there were no seats available for tonight's bus to Kampala. Wonderful. I booked the last seat for Friday's bus, and reevaluated. I almost hopped the first Matatu home (Migori? Sidari Sidari!) Instead I figured I'd run the few errands I had in Kisii to save myself the trouble on Friday. So up another hill (God that bag is awkward), nearly getting run over several times (there's no sidewalk, justa sewar separating the road from the shop fronts) to my favorite bookshop (ie the only one in town.) I wanted a few more books for the (12 hour) bus ride. I've really been into East African literature since I got here (once you're done writing, there isn't much else to do after dark) because I find it gives a real good sense of the culture/history/traditions. Anyway, I picked up some more novels (they fully recognize me at the shop, as soon as I walk in it was 'Hujambo!' and a scramble to the back shelf to pull down choices for me. They are very sweet in there.) Next I pulled myself to the Safaricom shop to figure out which tariff I needed to be on for my phone to work in Uganda (if you are wondering, it's the Safari Tariff, as opposed to the standard Sema Tariff) and to top up. By this time I was dripping sweat (I had worn a thermal so I wouldn't get cold at night on the bus.) From there it was back through town (I had never realized how steep all the streets are) back to the internet café (which is on the FOURTH FLOOR.) I got caught up in computer land, and didn't notice that it was dark out. As I tried to leave the building, the main exit was closed and I was forced to some auxiliary back stairs. As I walked into the darkness of Kisii, it looked different, menacing. All I could think was 'what have I got myself into?' As luck would have it, the first person I ran into was the scariest tout in Africa, this real sinister looking dude, with a voice that sounds like its coming through a voice box. "Ah, Muzungo! I take you to Migori!" He points not to a Matatu, but to a little sedan. I walk right past him and head up to wear the legit busses leave for Migori and hop the first one. Note to self: Matatu rides at night are to be avoided. These rides are scary enough to during the day, but at night it was like we were all wearing blindfolds. And halfway there, the gas light goes on. I was pretty sure I was going to be stranded on the side of the road, with the DVX, my passport, all my money, the whole shebang, trying to hitch my way to Kanga… I feel fortunate to be back at the homestead writing down the experience.

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